Panerai Watches Buying Guide

By Harrison Brown
27 May 2024

still life of panerai radiomir quantrana

Italian watchmakers, Panerai, are known for their impeccable taste and seamless craftsmanship. Offering a collection of timepieces that appeal to an array of styles and preferences, finding the right one for you can seem impossible. My simple guide provides all the info you need to select the perfect Panerai watch for you.

Heritage of Panerai

While Panerai watches are now crafted in Switzerland, the homeland of watches, the company first began as a humble watchmaking shop in Florence, Italy. Founded in 1860 by Giovani Panerai, the brand was an exclusive supplier for various military branches until 1993, when it began it's adventure into the public trading of timepieces.

As Panerai began to soar in popularity, there was one star that took the brand to new heights. In 1996, Sylvester Stallone was seen wearing a stunning Panerai Luminor in his blockbuster film, Daylight. Establishing the brand as more than just reliable, it was luxurious.

Soon after, Richmond Group sought to acquire the Italian watch brand, bringing them to the next level of watchmaking. Moving all manufacturing to Neuchâtel, Switzerland in 1997. A complete rebranding was done in 2001 which has now formed the Panerai we know and love today.

Discover the Collections

Over the years, Panerai has had some incredible collections. Yet the brand sticks to their 4 main collections that are sophisticated, sleek, and truly incredible.

Panerai Submersible

Blending the signature of style of the Panerai Luminor with the essentials of a professional diving watch, Panerai Submersible is a visually stunning tool watch. Defining itself as a standalone collection 2019, Submersible has become a force to be reckoned with.

Featuring the signature cushion-shaped case and crown-guard, each Submersible watch can be identified as part of the Panerai family while staying true to its own identity.

The Panerai Submersible Goldtech™ is a gorgeous timepiece and can often be seen on the wrist of WWE legend and action actor, Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson. The black dial and synthetic strap are brought to life by the Goldtech™ unidirectional rotating bezel. Complete with the iconic crescent-shaped crown guard. Whether you are fighting for your life in the ring, or walking down the red carpet, a Panerai Submersible is the perfect companion.

Panerai Luminor

Named after its Tritium-based lume, the Panerai Luminor features an oversized crown guard bridge with a distinguished design. While not the first original design created by Panerai, it has been established as the flagship for the brand.

Today, the Luminor has been adapted and redefined to a range of metals, sizes, and complications while remaining true to the original design for a nostalgic look.
The Panerai Luminor Marina showcases the creativity of Panerai. Utilising classic aesthetics with a blue sun-brushed dial and luminescent hour markers and hands. Perfect for those late-night adventures.

Panerai Luminor Due

Launched in 2016, the Panerai Luminor Due brings the original details of the Panerai Luminor with a slightly more modern edge. Featuring a slimmer case and smaller case sizes, Panerai began to make a more inclusive watch range.

Previously, each Panerai model was created with a purpose, from diving to night vision. The Panerai Luminor Due was the first model that was intended as a dress watch while remaining functional.

The Panerai Luminor Due Luna Moon Phase brings a more feminine aesthetic to the traditionally masculine design of Panerai watches. With an intriguing moon phase display and guarded crown mechanism, this is still a distinctively Luminor timepiece with a women's touch.

Panerai Radiomir

An iconic watch for the Panerai brand, the Panerai Radiomir is seen as the original design created by Officine Panerai in 1936. Crafted for the Italian frogmen in World War I, the Radiomir refers to a radium-based power that was formed into a paste and then used to make the wrist-instruments luminescent. Perfect for special forces lurking in the inky depths.

As one of the first concepts, the Panerai Radiomir can be recognised by the lack of crescent-shaped crown guards. While boasting the famous cushion-shaped case, each Radiomir watch can still be instantly recognised as a Panerai.

The Panerai Radiomir Origine is a fantastic display of the original design. A brown leather strap paired with a black dial is a timeless design that works perfectly for dinner or for the modern military diving watch.

What To Look For

Considering investing in a luxury watch takes a lot more than simply liking the aesthetics. There are a few things to look out for when selecting your Panerai watch and I have them listed below:

Type of Watch: Many people look at a watch and think they all have the same purpose. But you and I know this simply isn't true. From dress watches to diving watches to aviation watches, Panerai has a wide selection of timepieces for each activity.
Features: When browsing Panerai watches, it is important to consider the features you are looking for in a watch. Features such as movements (quartz or automatic), power reserve, luminous hour markets, and depth of water resistance. Make sure your watch of choice has everything you are looking for.
New vs. Pre-Owned: Panerai has been around for over 150 years, meaning they have plenty of vintage models, allowing you to be more sustainable and affordable by buying a pre-owned watch. However, new watches come with all the latest features and designs.
Price: Luxury watches can be more than pricey, especially when buying new. Set your budget and explore your options within that range but do be prepared to go slightly over for the watch you want.

Panerai Movements

While Panerai only became a luxury watch brand in the turn of the century, Panerai has over 20 in-house movements. From automatic to high complication, the brand takes pride and care when creating their movements.

Each in-house movement can be recognised by the P.XXXX format. Making it easy to determine what watch most meets your needs.
However, the brand also uses a variety of third-party movements, such as Unitas and ET. All of which start with OP and end with a Roman numeral.

Frequently Asked Questions

Who Own's TAG Heuer?

Watch conglomerate, Richmond Group have owned Panerai since 1997. Transforming the humble watchmaking brand into a luxury powerhouse.

Are TAG Heuer Watches Worth It?

Panerai watches are a good investment. With such a rich history and incredible craftsmanship, you know your Panerai watch will last for years to come.

Who Wears A Panerai Watch?

There are many celebrities who love the chic look of a Panerai watch on their wrist. From Arnold Schwarzenegger to Sylvester Stallone, a Panerai watch can be found on the wrist of some of the worlds biggest figures.

How Do I Athenticate My Panerai Watch?

Knowing that your Panerai watch is the real deal is crucial. An authetic Panerai watch will have a serial number engraved onto the case back that begins with BB, a case number that begins with OP, and a material indication. A fake Panerai will not have these credentials making it easy to spot a fake.

Panerai began as a simple watchmakers studio in the heart of Florence, Italy. Today, it is one of the most famous and renowned watch brands in the world. Crafting a gorgeous array of timepieces that are both sophisticated yet practical in their purpose, making for a wonderful investment. From dive watches to military grade tool watches, Panerai has watches for the history books.

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