Reach For Your Star: Zenith Watch Buying Guide

By Harrison Brown
16 Jun 2024

Zenith Chronomaster Sport watch model shot

Dreaming big has long since been at the heart of the legendary watchmaking brand Zenith. A log, fruitful journey of risk taking, honing their craft, and building upon each success has led Zenith to become the giant that it is today.

Below, I have curated a helpful buying guide that aids in finding your perfect Zenith watch. From the history of the brand to the most iconic collections, I can guide you to that watch that fits just right. Let’s get into it!

Dreaming Big: The Making of Zenith

In 1865, big dreamer apprentice, Georges Favre-Jacot took a leap fo faith and began his own watchmaking workshop named G.F.J. & Cie. Here, began the making of what would become one of the world's greatest horologists.

As Jacot grew as a horologist, his passion for the unknown grew with him and soon he realised that combining all of the necessary watchmaking elements to come together under one roof. And so, the world's first mass watch manufacturer was born in Le Locle, Switzerland.

In 1900, G.F.J. & Cie embarked on the journey of making the world's perfect watch. A goal that they completed with the pocket watch movement, Zenith. This innocuous movement went on to win the manufacturers the Grand Prix award. In 1911, G.F.J. & Cie was rebranded as Zenith.

Throughout history, Zenith has been part of some of the world's biggest moments. Including joining, aviation pioneer, Louis Blériot on his journey across the English Channel. A Zenith watch can also be seen gracing the wrist of peace activist, Mahatma Ghandi in his fight for equal rights, independence, and right to self-determination.

Zenith's Guardian: Charles Vermot

As the Quartz Crisis rolled on in the 1970’s, Zenith made the decision to stop production of their iconic El Primero movement. However, one employee refused to let the legacy making movement die.

Charles Vermot, was a loyal employee of Zenith and was one of the original horologists working on the El Primero movements. In disagreement with the board's decision to stop production, Vermot collected everything that would ever be needed in the event of an El Primero revival.

And only a decade later, a revival began. Vermot was crowned a hero and transformed the brand's legacy as they reintroduced the seminal automatic high-frequency chronograph movement.

The Zenith Collections

With over 150 years of experiments, models, and collections, Zenith has some incredible timepieces for us to admire. Below, I go into detail on the most iconic Zenith collections and what watches I think deserve a place in your personal collection.

Zenith Elite

When looking at a Zenith Elite watch, you will discover small nods to the original design of the Zenith calibre pocket watch launched in 1900. In the Zenith Elite, you’ll encounter understated designs influenced by the mid-20th century, featuring simple calendars, time-only displays, and elegantly crafted moon phase features.

The Zenith Elite Moonphase is a grand display of the power and knowledge coursing through the veins of the brand. A luxurious leather strap is presented with a rose gold case and detailing. The moonphase brings a sophisticated air and makes for the perfect dress watch.

Zenith Elite has been a favourite among loyal customers since it’s unveiling in the early 1990’s. It was introduced as a more modern model with multipurpose movements that could be worn to various occasions.

Zenith Pilot

Drawing inspiration from Zenith’s historical connection to the dawn of aviation, Zenith Pilot showcases timepieces reminiscent of the brand’s early cockpit instruments and pilot-specific wristwatches. These pieces underscore Zenith’s understanding of the collector’s desire for substantial, prominent pilot watches. With features ranging from chronographs to cases crafted in bronze and silver, this collection reveals a different facet of Zenith, appealing to those who seek something beyond the conventional El Primero variations.

An iconic model is the Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback. A modern-day version of a traditional aviation watch. With enlarged numerals for eligibility, enlarged crown for ease of use with gloves, and a stainless-steel case to brace against bumps and knocks.

With such a rich history in aviation dating back to the late 1800’s, Zenith have created a trustworthy collection that sets them apart from the rest. They are proud of their explorations and continue to aid aviation pioneers across the world.

Zenith Chronomaster

The Zenith Chronomaster, launched in 1994, represents a prestigious series of mechanical chronographs that encapsulate the Manufacture’s expertise and command over this intricate feature. Working as the home for all things El Primero, the Chronomaster collection is a work of art.

The Zenith Chronomaster Sport, poised to battle even the most luxurious of modern chronographs, takes a modern turn on the classic El Primero design. Within this collection, the El Primero is complemented by contemporary materials such as ceramic, along with an exquisite rose gold variant. This evolution appears to be a seamless extension of Zenith’s legacy, highlighting the brand’s innovative spirit and its exploration into avant-garde design territories.

Zenith Defy

Brimming with creativity, Zenith have created a space where they can let innovation flourish and shine. Zenith Defy is an eclectic collection of wonderful models looking to break the mould on the traditional watch. Working with a range of materials, crafting new movements, and innovative designs, it is no surprise that this collection is beloved by many watch connoisseurs.

Housing the El Primero 21 movements, the Zenith Defy Extreme is a bold watch that pushes the boundaries on style and mechanics. The case is crafted from a choice of black ceramic or titanium, ensuring longevity and precision.

At the heart of this extraordinary timepiece beats the legendary Zenith El Primero movement, renowned for its unparalleled precision and reliability. The El Primero movement is celebrated for its exceptional accuracy, operating at a high frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, enabling the watch to measure time with remarkable precision and offer a smooth and precise chronograph function.

El Primero: Reaching For The Stars

Zenith, known for their incredible inventions, was continually growing and inventing. Showcasing their wonders to the world, it was time for the manufacturers to wow us all once again.
In 1962, Zenith embarked on a pioneering journey to craft the world’s first self-winding chronograph with the goal of unveiling it in 1965, marking the Manufacture’s 100th anniversary.

Eschewing the simpler path of attaching a chronograph module to an existing movement, Zenith pursued a more visionary approach: integrating the chronograph function directly into the movement, controlled by a column wheel for enhanced precision, as opposed to the more conventional cam. The ambition didn’t stop there; the movement’s oscillation rate was set to be exceptionally high, enabling it to be the world’s most precise chronograph wristwatch with the capability of measuring down to 1/10th of a second. Compact dimensions and the inclusion of a date function were also part of the design brief.

The ambitious specifications set for the project were so advanced that it surpassed the initial deadline for Zenith’s centennial celebration in 1965, necessitating an additional four years of development.

Finally, on January 10th, 1969, Zenith held a press conference to herald the upcoming introduction of the world’s first fully integrated, high-frequency, automatic chronograph movement. Initially known as 3019 PHC, this groundbreaking movement was aptly christened “El Primero," translating to “the first” in Spanish, signifying its pioneering status in horological history.

Frequently Asked Questions

Who Owns Zenith?

Zenith are owned by LVMH. The manfuacturer was bought in 1999 and has continued to grow over the years.

What Are Zenith Best Known For?

Across the world, Zenith is known for their ability to craft extremely precise and fashion forward timepieces. Showcasing themselves as the leading manuacturer of precision chronometres and instruments. They have won over 2000 awards for their creations, including the innovative El Primero movement.

How Precise Are Zenith Watches?

Operating at a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, the movement has consistently achieved time measurement precision to within 1/10th of a second across five decades. In 2017, the manufacturer rejuvenated the Defy El Primero, presenting a chronograph with the enhanced capability of timing to an accuracy of 1/100th of a second.

For over a century and a half, Zenith have been at the forefront of watch innovation. Crafting spectacular movements and breathaking designs, the brand has continued to showcase why they are marked as luxury. At Chisholm Hunter, we are proud to offer a wide selection of Zenith watches and with this insightful buying guide, you can easily find your perfect Zenith watch to complete your selection.